Pai is Love1

Dear Pai,

It's been months since we parted. But I still think about you all the time. You have left such an indelible mark on me. You have shown me your beauty, your lovely light. You are worth braving the thousand hairpin curves that lead to you. Pai, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways... 


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1. Bikes bikes everywhere! Vintage bikes, decorated rickshaws, even planter box bikes!

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2. You overwhelm me with your Pai smiles. I see it on your walls, your people and even your banks!

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Pai is Love4

3. You got me hooked on your delicious cappucinos, bannoffee pies and artsy cafes!

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4. You are a paradise of art! You corners are filled with pretty little corners just waiting to be discovered. I also adore your beautiful souvenirs like postcards and custom t-shirts.

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5. You are a photographer's (and a model's) dream setting. There are so many places to visit in this town. The Chinese village, the Japanese WWII bridge, Coffee is Love cafe...

Pai is Love7


Pai is Love6

6. Pai is a truly romantic town. Love is all around!


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7. Where else could you find an upside down house?


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8. Pretty, colorful street art! An entire town just came together to create a place that would make you smile.

Pai is Love13

9. For a touristy town, it's impressively clean. There's absolutely no trash in sight. And the air is fresh! How's that for a community effort?

Pai is Love2

10. 3 words: Manual ferris wheel! Wheeeee!

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Did you fall in love with Pai just like us? Who wouldn't? If you get to Northern Thailand, make sure you drop by this place. When people ask me what I think about Pai, I always answer: Pai is love.

Getting there:
Pai is only 134 km from the city of Chiang Mai, Thailand. But the ride takes 3-4 hours because of a steep, winding road. It was so winding that 5 out of 8 people in our van threw up. The only ones who were spared were Chichi, myself and the driver. So make sure you take your car sickness pills and a barf bag!

Forever in love with Pai.
Sole Sister Lois

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45 sole trails

in a Prize

We like to celebrate Christmas early here at the Sole Sister's HQ so...

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Solo1

Saying that we dreaded going back home after our 6-month Asian trip is a huge understatement.

A few weeks leading up to our return to the Philippines, both of us were constantly on the verge of panic, hysteria or tears or a combination of all of the above. It seemed like there was a huge dark cloud hovering over us while we were in Bali, Indonesia - our last country on this trip. Every adventure, every view, every butt-numbing bus ride, every bite of nasi goreng needed to be savored and relished. We spent those last few weeks like we were about to be guillotined to death.

Before we used to look at each other and say 'Damn, we're so lucky to be doing this teh!'. Now, we'd look at each other with dread and sadness in both our faces.

So yes, saying that we dreaded going back home is an understatement.

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What happens when two beautiful islands lie side by side each other? What if both sit so close together that you're tempted into thinking that you can just swim to the other one? What if one is as beautiful as the other?

What if you had to choose only one? How do you decide?



We're nearing the end of 2011. Some are still squeezing the last drop of cheap holidays you can get from this year. But if you're like us, you probably have reached your travel quota (ours was largely due to our BIG Southeast Asian Trip!). But we won't let a trivial thing like that break us down, right? Instead, you're probably already planning your cheap holidays for 2012. Will you be traveling local or international next year? Warm or cold? To the beach or the mountains? 

The Sole Sisters' Malapascua-Bantayan Face-off

Bantayan Main Photo
Choose your paradise: 
Bantayan (above) or Malapascua (below)?
Malapascua Main Photo

Malapascua vs Bantayan, no holds barred. Like how we helped you choose between El Nido vs Coron and Bohol vs Boracay, once again we break down the pros and cons of these popular Cebu destinations to help you plan your holidays for next year. We give you the blow-by-blow, the play-by-play. Ok, I'm gonna stop with the boxing metaphors since you're probably past the KO point now.


Getting There and Away

Malapascua_Bantayan_map
Malapascua and Bantayan both lie off the North coast of Cebu. It's a smooth 3-4 hour drive from the Cebu North Bus terminal to get to the port, where you catch the ferry to the island. Better get your iPod+road trip playlist ready because it's smooth riding on the North highway, which for some unfathomable reason (read: vain) has been renamed after the current governor.

Just one important thing to remember upon getting to the north bus terminal, you need to take different buses depending on your destination. Hagnaya is to Bantayan Island what Maya is to Malapascua Island.

Got that? Didn't think so. Just repeat 100x or print out this article.

Round 1 update: Malapascua-1, Bantayan-1


Not All Beaches Are Created Equal

I only have 1 major requirement for a beach. Sand - pure, white and soft sand. Sand that digs softly in your toes. Sand, glorious sand that's perfect for laying around while you bake yourself to that golden brown color.


Malapascua Island has shores dotted with a mixture of sand, rocks and pieces of shells. Malapascua's sandy shore is like when you mix flour, peanuts and brown sugar right before you mix the eggs to make peanut butter cookies. Anyone else hungry after that yummy mental picture?

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Bantayan Island has sand so soft your toes sink deliciously into it. If Malapascua's shore is like a peanut butter cookie mixture, Bantayan's shore line is pure confectioner's sugarAnd that's the reason Bantayan wins this round. 'Nuff said.

Round 2 update: Malapascua-1, Bantayan-2


Underwater Pleasures

Malapascua Dive

There are more than a dozen dive sites surrounding the island of Malapascua. One of the most famous one is Monad Shoal - the only place in the world where you can see thresher sharks every day. Yes, everyday! 

If thresher sharks are not enough for you, you can easily head on over to Gato Island to spot whitetip sharks calmly sleeping under rocks. Still not enough? What about a Japanese World War II landing craft? Or the Doña Marilyn passenger ferry that sank in a typhoon 20 years ago? Or another World War II wreck of an unidentified Japanese cargo wreck? There, that should do it.

Bantayan - If Malapasuca is blessed with world-renowned dive spots, Bantayan has zero to none. The island is not known for it's diving. There are snorkel spots around the island but no known dive sites, as of the mo. Most people come to Bantayan for the beach and the crystal clear waters.


Round 3 update: Malapascua-2 (Thresher sharks ftw!), Bantayan-2


Island Hoppity Hop-Hop

There are no shortage of islands surrounding both Malapascua and Bantayan Islands that are just begging for you to explore them. They're just a hop and a skip of a boat ride away.

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Calanggaman Island: This island is actually part of Palompon, Leyte but it's easy to get there from Malapascua. This island is so picture perfect that it has been the chosen as the cover photo for Jens Peters' Philippine Travel Guide. 

Gato Island: This small island is a marine reserve and snake sanctuary that boasts of 5 dive sites. Better look out for those poisonous yellow garter snakes.
Chocolate Island: It's a shallow island that's perfect for snorkeling and diving. It's surrounded by soft colorful soft corals that's home to sea snakes, mooray eels and cuttlefish. 

Bonus: If you're as addicted as I am with jumping from things (Exhibit 1 and Exhibit 2), you can cliff dive from a height of 50 feet. That's the story of how my friend Ed's a$$ hurt after jumping from that height. Definitely doing this the next time I visit!

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Virgin Island: White sand, turquoise waters, no hotels. What else do you need in life? Just a few sheets of peacock alley bedding! This island is just 20 minutes from Bantayan.

Paradise Beach: It's a little presumptous to call a beach the Paradiset beach, right? Everyone agrees that with this beach, it's a perfect fit.

Ogtong Cave: There's no need to get on a boat to get to this cave since it's just a tricycle ride away from the port or your resort. It's the perfect antedote to all that salty water you've been indulging in since you arrived in the island. 

Round 4 update: Malapascua-3, Bantayan-3


And in conclusion...

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Photo Credit: marcovdc
If you are a diving enthusiast, then Malapascua Island is the perfect island to quench your underwater quench. Tresher and whitetip sharks, a hundred different species of fish and a couple of World War II shipwrecks, throw in a great diving community and you're all set for that ulitmate dive vacation you've been waiting for. When you're not diving, you can relax on the shores of the island. You'll rarely see anyone else for miles because most of them are underwater hanging out with those sharks.

Bantayan Island, Philippines
Photo Credit: Eric Brian Ouano
On the other hand, if beach bumming, swimming and lazing around is your main goal, then Bantayan Island is the paradise for you. Malapascua still has problems with electricity, it's mostly off rather than on during the day. Although that didn't bother me one bit (since you can find me on the beach anyways), this might create a bit of a problem with your do-nothing-today plans. 

So, tell me which island gets your vote? Are you pro-Malapascua or a hardcore Bantayan fan? Or did you fall in love with both islands like I did?

'Til the next face-off,
Sole Sister Chichi
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Travel Lessons10

This is the edited text version of Lois' talk about Life Lessons Learned While Traveling during St. Paul Pasig's World Tour Event for their Social Sciences Month celebration last October 28, 2011. Lois spoke to more than a thousand high school students ages 15-18 and shared how travel is the best learning experience she's ever had.


Travel Lessons1


Hi everyone, I'm Lois- and I'm a travelholic. I've been obsessed with travel since 2008. This year I went on a backpacking trip around 9 countries for 6 months with less than 100,000 budget along with friend and former colleague Chichi. Travel has taught me many life lessons including the 6 that I will share with you today:

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Travel Lessons2

Lesson #1: Conquer your fears

Travel teaches you to conquer your fears. I'm not afraid of heights or public speaking. But there's one thing I'm deathly afraid of: DANCING! At age 5, I had decided to quit ballet school and taken up karate instead. So you can imagine that I did not have have the grace nor the confidence to bust a move. But travel taught me to conquer my big fear of dancing. How? Let's watch this video to know why:




Now let me invite all of you to conquer your fears by dancing with me!


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(Amazingly, all students stood up and danced the Americano including teachers and school staff! It was a high energy crowd and they continued to dance even after the music had stopped! What an amazing moment!)

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You face your fears every day when you're traveling. Imagine walking through alleys in a strange city where no one spoke English! And to top it off, the road signs are in a script that look like a jumble of worms! You constantly fear getting lost and having to rely on the kindness of strangers.

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Travel has taught me to conquer my fears and seize every waking moment as an opportunity. An opportunity to learn new things, to grow and mature and most of all to live my life to the fullest.

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Lesson #2 Impossible is Nothing

6 months, 9 countries with less than 100,000PHP. It seems impossible, doesn't it? But for 1 year, we prepared for the big trip by saving money, selling most of our stuff and planning our itinerary. Of all the tasks we had to do before the trip, the toughest was to tell our parents and ask for their blessing.

The sad part was that my dad had to find out from someone else about my travel plans. He was disappointed that he was among the last to know. I finally told him I had quit my job. That I was dead set on going on a long term backpacking trip and how passionate I was about travel. He calmly asked me: "Anak, allergic ka ba talaga sa trabaho? (Are you allergic to keeping a job?)  Aren't you afraid? What if something happens to you?"
I answered my dad: "I'm not afraid of something happening to me. I'm more afraid that nothing happens to me. Nothing magical or amazing or breathtaking. I'm more afraid of a life that's not well lived."
But it ended well when my dad just hugged me and told me he supported my decision and loved me very much.

A lot of people tell me: "You're so lucky you get to do what you love which is to travel. I could never do anything like that!" But I have to remind them that when you say that you can’t do something, what you really mean is: “I can’t because I’m not willing to take a risk or put in the necessary effort.”

Travel Lessons5

Lesson#3 Dream BIG

Our big trip to travel around Southeast Asia all started with a dream. Up until the moment we boarded that plane to our first country, we couldn't really believe we pulled it off! But we had the audacity to dream big and the perseverance to take small but consistent steps in achieving it.

Never allow your logical mind to talk you out of pursuing your dreams. Your dreams are YOURS. Trying is the only way to know if they are possible to achieve.

Travel Lessons7

Lesson#4 Create your own Experiences

Travel allowed us to experience the world with our own senses. Not through television, the internet or other people’s stories. We learned that the world is so much different from what the media leads us to believe. When we were in Myanmar, we didn't feel unsafe in a country that's ruled by a military junta. We didn't feel discriminated in Indonesia even when the news were saying that women travelers were sometimes harassed. In India, where you get the general idea that it's dirty and impoverished, there were so many fantastic sights that were worth traveling and coming back for.

And the best revelation? Contrary to what I believed, the Philippines is not 'same same' with the rest of Southeast Asia. Some landscapes may look familiar. But the culture, history and the ways of the people are so perceptibly unique that you can't mistake one for the other!

When you travel, invest in experiences rather than souvenirs. They cost almost nothing but their effect is much more lasting than a refrigerator magnet or a bottle of dead sea salts.

Travel Lessons6

Lesson #5 Become a Global Citizen

Travel exposes you to different cultures. When we were in Banmaw, Myanmar, we met 5 Burmese college girls while visiting a monastery. They invited us to have tea with them and we struck up a conversation. We asked them about their dreams- to finish college and live a 'simple life' and where they wanted to travel- Yangon, the country's former capital. Even though there was a language barrier, we shared stories of our lives, family and love. The surprising part was when they insisted on paying for our tea and snack! Their generosity was shocking because we knew they didn't have much.

What I realized from this experience is that people all over the world have the same basic needs and wants. It does not matter where we come from, what we look like, how we talk, or what we believe. Through traveling, I have learned that we are all different peas stemming from the same pod, often with similar hang-ups, aspirations, fears and desires.

We are more the same than we are different.

Travel Lessons8


Lesson #6 Represent your country

When you travel you're not just a random stranger. First and foremost, you are a FILIPINO. We are all ambassadors of the Philippines. What we say or do reflects back to our country.  So when we go out into world, let's make sure they get a good impression.

Travel Lessons14


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Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac1

October 23 4:20 PM 

The current sure is getting stronger and it's pulling our small 2-passenger kayak quickly downstream. I must hold to my oar. This thing is expensive and I can't afford to lose it. One quick look at my guide and I saw he was paddling even faster. I realized he was suddenly unsmiling and intent on steering our little vessel into the right direction. The sound of falling water is getting louder and louder! I tugged on my life vest to make sure it was secured. I'm getting ready for the wildest ride of my life!

In the beginning...

October 22 10:35AM

Just arrived at Rapid Stream Whitewater facility in San Jose Tarlac. Whitewater kaying? In Tarlac? Who knew? It seemed as odd as packing a pair of bikinis for a trip to the mountains! It's my first time to try whitewater kayaking. I have no clue what to expect. The Rapid Stream crew were so friendly and accommodating that all we needed were welcome banner signs!

Jay, our instructor just got us through the basics of kayaking. Useful stuff like how to use a paddle (yes, there are certain technicalities), using the safety equipment and how to make sure you survive if manage to fall off your kayak. Note to self: pull you legs up to keep them from bumping into rocks in the event of a kayak flipover. This was only level 1-2 rapids. I'm sure I'll survive. Right?

10:55AM 

Streeeeetch! Carmela, our local host just got us all to do exercises to prepare for a day of kayaking. My muscles hurt. Must get back in shape.

Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac5

10:58AM

We're on a jeep that will bring us upstream at the starting point. This life vest is giving me a major wedgie. Safety or comfort? Hmmm...

Fasten your seat belts...

11:06AM

Woohoo! We're actually in the water! I made sure I got the front seat to a wild ride. It's great that we all get a guide in our kayak. Plus we didn't have more than 3 people in each boat. Ready... Get set.. Go!

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12:30AM

What a rush! Every time our kayak went downstream I would get really excited! I paddled harder than ever. This was much more fun than I thought!

1:05PM

My arms hurt. There are parts of the river that are still and deep. I need to paddle harder. Paddling is a lot of work!

1:23PM

Christian, the co-owner of Rapidstream just showed me a cool technique on paddling. I was huffing and puffing hard and he took pity on me. His advice: instead of using your left arm when rowing to the left, push the oar with your right arm in a punching motion. Punch to the right, now punch to the left. Repeat! Wow! That made paddling much much easier. 1-2-1-2!

River Jump

1:35PM

Taking a break. By jumping off rocks into the river! I'm a bit scared to jump into the jagged rocks. But Jay, our guide, holds my hand and jumps into the cold water with me. Refreshing!

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1:50PM

Here come the wild rapids! Christian stops us and gives us a brief warning. The next turn will be a tough one. We may get caught in the reeds or take a tumble because of the sharp and narrow turn. We need to paddle faster than the downstream current. Breathing harder now.

1:55PM

Our turn to go! We paddle as hard as we can. We didn't turn over and made it! Everyone did! Oh, except our videographer Russel. Their kayak flips over in midstream. But they quickly recovered.

Kayak Surfing

Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac8

2:30PM

We're going surfing! Yes- paddle surfing that is! We pass through a fast section of the rapids. Then turned the boat back and paddled upstream- against the current! The goal is to stay in the same place for as long as you can before a wave pushes you off. Did I mention that my arms are about to fall off at this point? But our guide is so competitive! He kept trying to steer us in the direction of the rapids. I paddled so hard and laughed even harder. This is fun!

Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac7

3:10PM

We got back to the starting point in one piece! What a ride! We have a big lunch of rice and tilapia in banana leaves. Delicious! Level 3-4 is coming up tomorrow in Mayantoc, Tarlac. I wonder if it's much wilder...

October 23 3:10PM

Next Level Rapids


Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac3


Ohmylawrd! The first leg and it's the scariest one yet! Picture this: the drop is almost vertical. There are sharp, narrow turns and jagged rocks that glisten invitingly in the sun. The water just flowed so fast and hard! I can imagine how a kayak can easily flip and get swallowed up by the river.

3:20PM

Brian, the co-owner of Rapid Stream makes a wise decision to let the passengers skip this drop. Only the guides would ride it out. We got on after the first rapids. And what a wise decision it was. Most kayaks flipped over. But the team was experienced and recovered quickly without a hitch. Safety is a major concern for them.

3:50PM

We slip over the dam! We paddle so hard to get through. Our kayak makes a swift whoosh and we're back in the river.

Hold on for Dear Life!

4:20PM

They weren't kidding when they said this was level 4. More rapids to get through! It's even more exciting and faster than the first river ride! I scream my lungs out after each downstream fall.

The current sure is getting stronger and it's pulling our small 2-passenger kayak quickly downstream. I must hold to my oar. This thing is expensive and I can't afford to lose it. One quick look at my guide and I saw he was paddling even faster. I realized he was suddenly unsmiling and intent on steering our little vessel into the right direction. The sound of falling water is getting louder and louder! I tug on my life vest to make sure it's still secure. Getting ready for the wildest ride of my life!

Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac12

4:28PM

We made it to the other side! I'm still alive! I was breathing hard and suddenly made a count of all the kayaks and friends who got back. All 10 of us were there! We had all survived the wildest ride of our lives!

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Whitewater Kayaking in Tarlac10

Watch this video for a quick preview of our Whitewater Kayaking adventure:





Rapid Stream 

If you want to go on a heart pumping whitewater kayaking adventure yourself, Rapid Stream in San Jose, Tarlac is only 2 hours away from Manila. You can book your trip through their facebook page. The cost is 1,800 per person and you can ask about their group discounts. You can take a bus from Manila to Tarlac City and get picked up for a minimal extra charge. Email them at rapidstreamecotours@gmail.com

There's more to Tarlac!

Whitewater rafting isn't the only thing that wowed us about Tarlac. We went cliff-jumping, trekking and swimming all in one weekend! We met so many wonderful people like the crew of Rapid Stream, the Vice-Mayor of Tarlac, Venus Tomas, and the local girls who introduced them all: The Prado Sisters Carmela and Diana whom we first met during Travel Talks. Check out this video to preview what else we were up to in Tarlac. I'm writing about that on my next post!





Smitten by Tarlac,
Sole Sister Lois

All videos and photographs are courtesy of Russel Patalinghog. Check out his work here or follow him on Twitter: @russelcp.

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