Meltdown on the Road from Jodhpur to Mumbai

Sunday, March 13, 2011

This is part 5 of Lois' Misadventures in India series. If you haven't taken a ride on a camel's back in the Thar desert, click here.

We arrived early in the morning Jodhpur via train from Jaisalmer and had to scramble for a place to stay. There were 2 things working against us: 

1. We arrived at the city center which made accommodations expensive and 
2. It was just 6AM when we got there which meant most of the rooms were still occupied.

We settled for a 300IRS (around 7USD) hotel room at the Shiva Hotel which was probably the worst room we stayed in India.

I did not take a photo because we were so exhausted. But let me describe the place:

It was horrible.

There was dirt and cigarette butts on the floor. The sheets that used to be white were light gray and had stains. And that was even after we asked them to change it!

The toilet was even worse. It was a squat toilet which had a dreadful smell. The walls and floors were unwashed. We had to suck it up. We were in India after all. And we only planned to stay there for the night before we headed to Southern India.

After a quick nap, we immediately headed out to see the old part of the city and climb a hill where the Mehrangarh Fort and theJaswant Thada Mausoleum was. Here's the view as we climbed higher and higher up that hill:
Jodhpur, India
Little girl selling cloth and saris at the Old Market in Jodhpur
Jodhpur, India
Most of the houses were painted in all shades of blue
Jodhpur, India
Quaint little shed on the way to the hilltop view
Jodhpur, India
It seemed like the gods took a huge tub of paint and splashed the whole town blue
Jodhpur, India
I loved the doors in this little town
Jodhpur, India
Bluest city in the world
Jodhpur, India
Mehrangarh Fort stood majestically on top of a hill
Jodhpur, India
Jaswant Thada Mausoleum is where the remains of the Maharaja was cremated
Jodhpur, India
Going up the entrance of the Jaswant Thada
Jodhpur, India
Just like the Taj Mahal, this monument is built out of intricately carved marble
Jodhpur, India
Trying hard yogi wannabe
Jodhpur, India
Lotus Pose or Indian Sit?
Jodhpur, India
Even the doors are intricate works of art
Jodhpur, India
From the inside looking out
After Jodhpur, travel started to take it's toll on me. We had to work our way south through land transfers because it was the cheapest option. But what I failed to realize was how gynormous India really is. Just to get to Goa, in the south, it would take us 3 days of nonstop travel:

10 hour sleeper train ride from Jodhpur to Ahmedabad
10 hour layover in Ahmedabad
9 hour train ride from Ahmedabad to Mumbai
6 hour layover in Mumbai
11 hour sleeper train ride from Mumbai to Goa

And we did it through overnight trains without stopping to sleep in any hotel on the way. We showered in train stations, slept in noisy trains and had to carry our backpacks the whole way. I really thought it was doable.

I mean I've been fairly warned about the hazards and hassle of going to this country. I've survived a night in the desert in freezing temperature. I've even been harassed by a pushy priest from Pushkar! But even for hardcore travelers like myself, 3 days of nonstop travel was a bit much.

I cried, complained and dragged my weary behind to Goa.  
Mumbai, India
Whoever said traveling was all fun and games probably never made it to India
Mumbai, India
Sleeping arrangements on the train
It wasn't very Sole Sisterly of me, I know. But even Sole Sisters break down. I was exhausted, cranky and in terrible need of a hot shower in the 3 days we traveled nonstop. I hate to end in the middle of a story. But on the next post, see if I can take the chill pill on the beautiful beaches of Goa.

Have you ever had a meltdown in the middle of a journey? How do you deal with stress while on the road? Share your tips with the Sole Sisters by leaving a comment below.

Still reminiscing about my India adventures,
Sole Sister Lois

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13 sole trails

  1. No train delays this time around. But yes, I've had a fair share of those in India. Annoying but highly expected.

  2. Yes, the fact that we took sleeper trains did give us a bit of consolation. Plus some cultural experiences and learnings all throughout. Waking up to the shouts of copi chai! Eating some delicacies and biryani rice sold by peddlers. And meeting the most bizarre and interesting strangers on the way. I hope to also make it to South America like you did. Thanks for stopping by Steve!

  3. Maciek i DorotkaJune 11, 2011 at 2:58 AM

    That sounds really stressful and tiring. But sometimes such journey is rewarding - you feel good after it that you saved up couple of days that you can spend in another place... that's our opinion. we also keep promising to ourselves that will stop travelling in such a hurry but sometimes it's a must.

    Our longest continous trip in India was much longer :) We were going from Lakshadweeps to Kolkata and it took us three and a half day without shower and hotel of course. In a meantime we were still sighseeing ;-)

    I see that we were following your paths couple days after. The same places (Jodhpur, Palolem, Madurai etc.). We enjoyed Jodhpur very much, maybe your bad memories are because of the accomodation - bad feelings about it could change your point of view : )

  4. the proper spelling would be Lakshmi. :)

    Great trip! I enjoyed your Indian tales. Where's Goa? :D

  5. Here you go Ariel:

  6. Thanks for sharing your experiences Maciek and Dorotka! We're so glad you were part of our India experience. I hope you continue to keep in touch, share your adventures and maybe we'll see each other again. It's just a matter of time ;-)

  7. I loved India! Here's Goa:

  8. I had to read this again after what you told me in the email. I must
    commend you for surviving 3 days of non-stop train travel. And there I
    was getting apprehensive over a 17 hour train ride from Delhi to

    Despite this, I'm looking forward to our own India trip after what you've shared to me. :)

    Thanks again for the travel tips, Lois! 

  9. Ganda naman ng picture! hahaha... joke lang angge! Yeah, 17 hours is not gonna be the worst part for you. And train rides are really a great insight to the Indian culture. Don't forget to drop by Pushkar, it's my favorite place in India so far...

  10. Hi Lois,

    This is Riza from Iloilo :) Me and a friend are planning to have a trip in India come March or April and I really need your expert advice on our IT. We are planning to spend a month there and I would really appreciate for some feedbacks.


  11. Baye Maniago @

    It must be really bad. Your eyes were swollen on one of your pictures. I had the same experience when we went to puerto galera. I was 3 months pregnant. I don't know if it was my condition. i was throwing up the whole time, the banca ride was too bumpy for me, and touts were just so irritating. I swore not to go back to that place. 

  12. 1. *its (not it's) toll on me
    2. *ginormous (not gynormous)


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